Hirakuya @ Jiyugaoka

June 30, 2020 Dave Perry

The first of the three restaurants in the Hirakuya family, the Jiyugaoka store has remained a reliable favourite for many years.

Housed in an old Showa era building, the interior is all timber frame and rafters decorated with an eclectic collection of art, books, posters and an admirable (if now occasional) collection of One Piece figurines. The atmosphere is casual yet intimate. Counter seats before the open kitchen allow a view of the chefs in action while the wine list-partition adds a little fun to choosing from the small selection of reasonably priced table wines.

Although (much like Ebisu’s Toliuo) Hirakuya’s focus on pairing wines with a fusion of Asian and European cuisines is now less novel than once it was it still ensures a satisfying meal. The menu ranges across a variety of dishes and is seasonly updated so deserves to be studied. Portions are large; so much so that the signature salads also come in half and quarter portions.

Hirakuya

03 3725 3979

Tonkatsu Suzuki @ Shirogane

May 9, 2020 Dave Perry

Snug beneath the metropolitan highway overpass, Tonkatsu Suzuki is a lesson in understated Showa style; simple counter before a tiny kitchen, small tatami covered koagari dining area and wood panelled walls provide the backdrop for near monastic silence as the clientele of old regulars (including the occasional celebrity) immerse themselves in the dining experience.

The street-side menu offers a choice of loin (rōsu), fillet (hire), bite-size loin cutlets or shrimp, served as teishoku sets including tsukemono, kōji infused miso soup, sliced cabbage and rice (accompanied by beer or sake).

The tonkatsu itself is large and succulent. We prefer the perfectly lean hire katsu although for those who prefer a fattier cut, the rōsu katsu is also excellent and can still be enjoyed by those who usually play it lean. The firm, moist pork is due to the batter in which it’s sealed; each cutlet is dipped thrice before frying, resulting in a robust outer batter that encases the meat to seal in juices and flavour, rather than the more breadcrumb like batters at most tonkatsu restaurants.

Tonkatsu Suzuki

03 3442 9432

+ Veganique @ Jiyugaoka

April 25, 2020 Dave Perry

***‘Colourful farm-to-table vegetable antipasto plate’***

***Seasonal vegetable minestrone soup***

Housed in an old two story timber dwelling, + Veganique’s interior has a comfortable, almost rustic, simplicity (think Kanagawa beach house meets Kinfolk) that echos the unadulterated naturalness of owner-chef Kato’s cooking.

The concept behind his ‘100% vegan restaurant’ is to bring the delicious purity of vegan style cuisine combining vegan, organic and macrobiotic ingredients to diners of all dietary persuasions.

Although the menu is a one trick pony for repeat visitors, for its variety of colours, flavours and textures the farm-to-table antipasto plate shouldn’t be missed, while the moreish lasagne and paella prove that vegan dining needn’t mean giving up comfort foods.

+ Veganique

090 9823 8310

Bistro Partager @ Shinsen

March 29, 2020 Dave Perry

***Liver pate and apple jam French puff***

***Duck ham, foie gras and mushroom salad***

***Pork offal sausage with mashed potato***

Situated on a semi-residential backstreet not far from Shinsen’s main attractions, Partager is a comfortable neighbourhood ‘meat bistro’ dedicated to the exploration of all things ‘cow, pig, sheep, duck and chicken.’

Both a la carte and course options are available, complimented by an affordable list of organic and bio wines.

Owner-chef Nomoto’s cooking delivers cost performance with generous portions; so much so that sampling a range of dishes can be challenging when dining alone or as a couple. The delicious charcuterie moriawase of whole pig pate de campagne, duck terrine, Iwate white ham, smoked chicken liver, Oyama chicken gelatine and jidori chicken breast with olive marinade and pickled vegetables, is practically a meal in itself.

Bistro Partager

03 6416 1131

Rodeo @ Nakameguro

March 16, 2020 Dave Perry

***Rodeo hamburg in meat sauce spaghetti***

Salivating media coverage, Tabelog awards and a loyal fan base have made reservations at this secluded sister shop to Ebisu’s Restorante Da Babbo hard to come by. When fortune smiles, be sure to request a seat at the counter overlooking the kitchen to avoid being perched precariously at one of the narrow shelves lining the dining space.

The pared down chic of the interior has a pleasant intimacy accentuated by the warm, faintly smoky aroma emanating from the irori grills and firewood stacked above the counter.

Rodeo’s menu consists of a variety of wood-grilled Italian cuisine with a focus on moreish antipasti, (somewhat ungenerous) grilled meats, seasonal vegetables and pastas; the caciocavallo bruschetta and renowned spaghetti topped with juicy mashed hamburger in meat sauce are worth the visit alone.

Rodeo

03 6451 2262